Saturday, 9/29/2018
This was another long day on the trail for us. We covered 15.5 miles, including fording an inlet on stepping stones at low tide and taking a short ferry ride. Although the path was easier (and lower) then previous days, we still put in over 2000 ft of altitude, up and down. There were fewer really steep bits, but the miles of gradual change rally added up.
The day started with sunrise out our window overlooking the sea. After another Cornish-ish breakfast (eggs, bacon, and sausage; hold the mushrooms, tomato, and beans) we headed out. The weather was still good, although slightly chillier. The cliffs are lower in this section, and the trail took us closer to the water. This was a day with some gentler landscapes – lower cliffs, more fields and hedgerows, some wooded areas and country lanes.
Our schedule made it imperative that we arrive at Gillan Creek at low tide in order to wade or walk across, to avoid a two mile walk around. We got there early and while we snacked on almonds, debated using the slippery stepping stones vs. taking boots off to trek across the mud flat. With waterproof (we hoped) boots and stabilizing walking poles, we opted for the stones as being more comfortable.
The next adventure was the Helford Passage ferry crossing. We had to open a large sign with a yellow circle on one side of the water and hope the ferry operator saw it from the other side to come get us. Although we waited long enough to start worrying, it turned out that the ferry (actually a large motorboat) was making regular trips back and forth. In fact, the pub on the other side, where we had hoped to get a cup of rejuvenating coffee, was packed with a huge crowd of people waiting to be ferried to a funeral. So instead of a boost of caffeine, we sat on a concrete sidewalk to one side and made do with cookies and an apple.
The last three or so miles from the ferry were hard on the legs and feet, but we persevered, anticipating baths and showers, dinner in the hotel and then collapse. Tomorrow is our last day of walking, and with easy miles into the city of Falmouth, so we can sleep in a bit.
There and Back Again 